-Don't run the built in thermal printer without paper, you will eventually ruin the print head. Lift the paper bail to disable the printer.
-You can use any thermal printer paper that is 4
9/32" wide x 2 1/4" diameter on a 7/16" ID core. Try pospaper.com.
-If you need a good book on interpreting scope patterns, Allen wrote a great one: 141 pages of ways to use your SEA scope or any automotive oscilloscope. I have electronic copies in pdf format for $20. Here's some sample pages from the book, you can click on each for a full size pdf file. It's called "The Scope Book - smart diagnostics in the age of computers", written by the Allen Institute Training Program.
Cover |
Table of Contents 1 |
Table of Contents 2 |
Page 43 |
Page 104 |
Page 112 |
-You can find the software version of your SEA by going to the "Special Functions" menu, then choosing either "Set Clock" or "Software Status", depending on the machine. Use the remote to navigate if there are no square bullseyes for the light pen.
-Some SEAs are equipped with a hard drive ("Allen Smart Connection" or ASC) that loads the SEA program into memory at every startup. These machines show "Program Loading" on the screen at startup, have a floppy drive and fan unit on the back, and have a remote controller. This option allows the SEA to use the OBD I trouble codes from your car to walk you through a diagnosis and test routine. A neat idea, but the hard drives eventually fail and cannot be easily duplicated. If you need a hard drive, email me at to see if I have any in stock.
-If you get error code 12 on startup, it means the clock battery on the 5000945 pattern storage board (circled in red) is dead. Just press the continue button (blue boom lead) to get to the menus. To replace the battery, you'll have to desolder the old one and solder in a new one. I usually solder in an AA battery holder with long wires and install a 3.6 volt lithium battery, then mount it under the card cage with velcro so the battery can be easily replaced. Unless you know how to handle heat and static charges, don't bother. |
-If your SEA has a gas bench built in, the oxygen sensor only lasts about two years. You can easily replace it yourself (see below), new O2 sensors are about $70 on Ebay, part #697-88886, or just search for an R-22A oxygen sensor for a Sun, Bear or Allen smog machine.
The O2 sensor is circled in red. Open the back cover, remove the fan if there is one, disconnect the 3 conductor wire to the top and unscrew the sensor. Make sure the O ring comes off with it. |
Here's the O2 sensor, it is used in many machines (Sun, Bear, Allen BAR 90 and BAR 97). Note the O ring at the bottom. |
-If your scope option either doesn't appear on the SEA menu or disappears when you change menus, you need to install a set of ferrite rings to strip line noise. There's an Allen technical bulletin on how to do this. I can email it to you. The ferrite rings are 2 3/8" OD, 1 3/8" ID, 3/8" thick. The bulletin calls for 7 ferrite rings to be installed, but my experience has shown that one or two in the scope circuitry will suffice. If you can't find the rings, I have a few for $10 each plus shipping.
-If your SEA has a gas bench, these filters (Allen
P/N 44887) are no longer available. Best to just replace the entire
filter bowl with a setup used by an SPX, Sun, ESP, Worldwide,
etc. smog machine. You can keep the secondary filter, it's
serviceable.
-If you get a messages about low flow, insufficient flow through bench, etc. the hoses in the bench are probably crumbled. Just replace them with clear plastic vinyl hose (1/4" ID x 3/8" OD) from your local hardware store. The heat, exhaust gases and shop environment make any hoses over 20 years old suspect.
-If you have an Allen BAR 90 machine, you can network it's gas bench to your SEA. Connect a cable between the RS-232 ports on the backs of the SEA and BAR 90, fire up the BAR 90, choose "SEA/DEA Network Mode" from the main menu. The SEA will then use the gas bench from the BAR 90. Press the "Escape" key on the BAR 90 keyboard to exit the network mode.
-Light pen inoperative? Try these steps, in order:
1) Clean the front cover with a good plastic
cleaner;
2) Turn up the screen brightness control all the way (open the
front panel, upper left hand corner);
3) Try the light pen directly against the CRT screen (not
through the cover);
4) Remove the light pen, shine a flashlight into the user end.
You should see a bright beam of light out of the circuit board
end.
If the pen works against the CRT screen but not through the
cover with the brightness control turned all the way up, you can
increase the brightness of the screen by a small pot (circled in
red) on the circuit board inside the SEA behind the CRT. THIS IS
WAY DANGEROUS SINCE THERE'S THOUSANDS OF VOLTS BACK THERE! THE
CRT IS CHARGED WITH THOUSANDS OF VOLTS EVEN WHEN THE UNIT IS OFF
AND UNPLUGGED! DON'T do this unless you know what you are doing,
or get a friend experienced with working with CRTs to do it. If
your SEA has a hard drive you can access and move through the
menus with the keypad.
If your light pen fails all the above tests, I may
have good used ones for $75 exchange, or I can rebuild yours for
$50.
-Fuzzy printing? The Allen thermal printer is pretty robust, but tends to gum up and slow down as time wears on. Lubricate the moving parts with spray silicone (SMALL amounts).
If that doesn't work, remove the printer from the SEA and adjust the small white plastic cam circled in red. You may have to scrape off the hot glue Allen put there 20 years ago to get it to move. You can access the cam from the side without removing the black metal cover. If your printer is truly dead, I may have replacements for $50.
-If your SEA has a cooling air filter on the back, it's probably falling apart due to age. Don't run the unit without a filter - the insides will fill up with dust and grime, especially in a shop environment.
An easy fix is to remove all the black foam (it will crumble when you touch it, so remove the filter frame from the machine) and replace the foam with an old towel or wool sock.
If you don't see what you need, email me at or call me at 530-417-6784. I'm always getting new stuff in. I'm located in the Paonia, CO area, but I'll ship anywhere. Cash or PayPal only! Shipping is at your expense, use the item's size & weight to get an estimate from USPS, UPS, Fedex, etc. from Zip Code 81428. Everything comes with a money back guarantee. Check my feedback on Ebay (rcourtem).
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SEA Manual, Allen Part # 25711-090,
covers the use of all the screens on your SEA,
includes an EZ reference guide. This manual is for SEA
version 9 and above, but will also work for version 8
machines. I also have manuals for older SEA operating
versions as well as technician's setup instuctions,
etc for the SEA and other Allen machines, so email
your requests. Hundreds of pages, 1.5" thick.
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ASC manual, Allen Part # 25884-1 and
35728 for SEAs with the ASC option installed. Your SEA
has a hard drive if it has a 20 button keypad that has
"Smart Connection" at the top. Includes ASC EZ reference
guide, Disk Storage guide, 10 amp shunt instructions and
computerized engine control locators to 1993 for
domestic and Toyota vehicles. Hundreds of pages, 1.5"
thick.
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If you own an Allen engine analyzer (SEA, DEA or SmartScope), this lead set will enable you to test some GM vehicles with distributorless ignition systems. You must have the Allen DIS adapter (Allen part #32-xxx, I may have some of these in stock, ask) and the spark plug cables to use this lead set. |
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This lead set (Allen #32-650) allows full testing (view secondary patterns, cylinder kills, etc.) for the following GM vehicles:
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This lead will test: 1989 & newer Ford 2.3 liter dual spark
plug You must already have an Allen DIS adapter, distribution boxes, spark plug clips and sync probes. Allen part number 44816, instructions included.
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Boards, probes, wiring, etc, email or
call with parts requests. Everything is used, some
tested, some not, but all come with a money back
guarantee. All parts are from Allen model 62000 series
machines. If it's not listed, email or call, parts are
always coming in and going out.
10 amp shunt 46165 |
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